Improvised high angle Self-REscue Modules

Rock Context  | Snow and Glacier Context

 Upcoming 2025 Programs

Rock | June 14th – Boulder, CO

Snow and Glacier | June 15th – Estes Park, CO

 

Make sure you sign up for your intended module date! 👉

For More Comprehnsive Programs Check out these:

Trad Climbing for MTN Athletes
Glacier Skiing Seminar

Module Approach

Fundamental improvised high angle skills applied in two contexts

A comfortable dry setting provides a superior learning environment to learn the fundamentals of high angle improvised rescue.  If you do not have a strong background in improvised rescue start here before moving to a wet, cold, glove wearing environment.

You will be far more effective in the snow and glacier context after you have built a level of familiarity with these techniques. Having a mastery of the the techncial fundamentals allows you to focus more on how to apply them across the dynamic varabile nature of the snow and ice environment.

In these modules we will spend time practicing techniques as well as discussing their situational application in real world settings.  We will want to come away with a good understanding of why and when we use these skills not just how to rig them.

Technical Skills for dry rock

We will cover a variety of rope-work and climbing skills starting with:

I like to frame rescue from two perspectives: as the lead climber and as the following climber.  We will address rescue problems from both perspectives.

 

  • Discussion of common self rescue situations and prevention
  • Rescue skills for the second climber
  • Escaping the belay
  • Ascending to the leader
  • Rappelling with an injured climber
  • Advanced rappel techniques
  • Rescue skills for the lead climber
  • Releasing a belay plate, lowering, hauling
  • Passing a knot while lowering

    Prerequesites

    To get the most out of this program:
    The best way to get the most out of your time with a guide is to arrive with a basic understanding of the topics to be covered.  You will benefit more from focusing on when and why to use these techniques instead of how to use them.  We want to focus on refining skills.  I would recommend coming prepared with:

    • Mastery of single pitch climbing systems
    • Understanding of multi pitch climbing systems
    • Use of a plaquette style belay plate
    • Knowledge of climbing knots and hitches
      • figure 8, overhand on a bight, clove hitch, girth hitch
      • klemhiest, prussic, autoblock
      • Munter hitch, mule knot and overhand backup (MMO)

     

    Self rescue for snow and glaciers

    Buidling on fundamental improvised rescue skills we will apply them in the snow.

    • Glacier Navigation
    • Crevasse and snow bridge formation
    • Assessing and approaching a crevasse 
    • Snow anchor construction
    • Descent techniques
    • Improvised ascent
    • Hauling Techniques
    • Patient Considerations

    Yes, these courses are best in Colorado in early summer in the high alpine.

    Late season in Colorado we have access to high alpine snow that realistically simulates many common snow conditions encountered on glaciated peaks.  Its key that you practice in circumstances that reflect the real thing.  This is why we don’t offer these trainings until early summer when we have the right snow for them. 

    If you want to ski on glaciers I recommend leaning about glacier safety on real glaciers as the margin for error skiing unroped is very small.  We don’t want to focus on rescue skills in this context but avoidance skills.  While the skills on these programs are very transferable to a ski context don’t think they replace supervised milage on real glaciers. Check out this program.

    Glacier Skiing Seminar

    Interested?

    Please drop me a line with the contact form.  I can give you some more information and we can talk about if this program is a right fit for your goals.

     

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